In the intricate world of haute horlogerie, every now and then, an audacious watchmaker shakes things up, pushing the limits of mechanics, design, and technical prowess. Today, the spotlight shines on Konstantin Chaykin, the independent Russian watchmaker known for his ingenious and often playful timepieces, as he enters the ongoing race for ultra-thin watches.
Enter ThinKing: 1.65mm of Pure Innovation
The ultra-thin watch game is as fierce as it is sophisticated. Masters like Piaget and Bulgari have long dominated the field, each crafting ever-slimmer watches with staggering mechanical precision. But 2024 marks the debut of a new contender: the ThinKing, a groundbreaking mechanical wristwatch that measures just 1.65mm thick. Yes, you read that right—1.65mm.
The story behind ThinKing is, in itself, a testament to Chaykin’s unconventional approach to watchmaking. Twenty years ago, he stumbled upon an antique Bagnolet pocket watch movement, an example of horological art with a thickness so thin, it sparked a question: why not create something similar today? At the time, the answer remained in the realm of “maybe someday,” as Chaykin was focused on more complex watches. But fast forward to 2023, and the idea resurfaced, reigniting his passion for ultra-thin movements.
From Inspiration to Creation: A Thought-Driven Watch
It’s no surprise that the name “ThinKing” carries a double meaning. It’s not only a nod to the thought process behind creating this marvel of engineering, but also a cheeky declaration: this watch is the new “King of Thin.” Chaykin’s journey to achieve such a slim profile wasn’t just about shrinking components; it required deep reflection, technical skill, and an almost obsessive commitment to detail.
While many watchmakers focus solely on the thinness of the case, Chaykin took it a step further by incorporating his signature “Wristmon” design. The ThinKing’s face features two distinct subdials for the hours and minutes, resembling the quirky, expressive eyes of the characters in his famed Wristmon collection. And though there’s no moonphase to mimic a smile here, the engraved brand logo along the top cover provides a clever substitute.
The Symbiotic PalanKing Case: Style Meets Substance
Perhaps one of the most ingenious aspects of the ThinKing is not just its ultra-thin design, but how Chaykin solved the age-old issue of practicality. Ultra-thin watches are notorious for being delicate and hard to use daily. So, Chaykin developed an external carrier case, whimsically named “PalanKing” (a reference to a palanquin), which allows the wearer to enjoy the ThinKing without worrying about damaging its thin structure.
This external case, at just 5.4mm thick with the ThinKing inside, not only winds the watch automatically but also acts as a shield, offering protection without compromising aesthetics. The concept is reminiscent of Breguet’s Pendule Sympathique, yet Chaykin’s version is wearable, and dare we say, much cooler. The ThinKing looks just as stunning inside the PalanKing as it does on its own, offering a perfect balance between robustness and style.
Technical Mastery: Patents Galore
Creating a 1.65mm watch is no small feat. The ThinKing movement, with 204 parts and 51 jewels, is packed into an ultra-thin caliber designed and manufactured entirely in-house. To reduce thickness, Chaykin invented several patented mechanisms, including an ultra-thin winding barrel and a unique double balance wheel. These innovations, combined with a special strap designed to protect the delicate case, ensure that the ThinKing isn’t just a fragile showpiece but a practical, wearable timepiece.
Lighter Than Air: Weighing in at 13.3 Grams
As if being ultra-thin wasn’t enough, the ThinKing also joins the ranks of the world’s lightest watches. Weighing just 13.3 grams without the strap, it’s a featherweight champion that offers comfort alongside its cutting-edge design.
The Final Touch: From Moscow to Geneva
In spring 2024, after months of meticulous design and development, the ThinKing is ready for its grand debut at Geneva Watch Days. Chaykin’s decision to present the watch in Geneva feels like a symbolic homage to the Swiss masters of ultra-thin watchmaking, whose legacy he now joins.
But don’t think this is the end of the story. Chaykin is already hinting at future improvements, with additional technical optimizations and potential surprises in store. After all, this is only the beginning for the new king of ultra-thin watches.
Technical Specifications
Number of Components: 204 parts, 51 jewels
Thickness: 1.65 mm
Diameter: 40 mm
Weight: 13.3 g (without strap)
Case: Special stainless steel
Crystal: Two sapphire crystals, 0.35 mm thick
Movement: Ultra-thin caliber K.23-0 with manual and automatic winding via the PalanKing
Power Reserve: 32 hours
